How to Control Green Aphids Organically


Are there red swellings on the leaves of fruit bushes, and the tops of the shoots are twisted? How to treat berry bushes and fruit trees when ugly bumps appear on their half-expanded, half-developed leaves? Will this affect the future harvest? In order not to be tormented by questions and to protect the garden from aphids, it is necessary to start the fight against the pest in early spring and monitor the state of the berries and fruit crops throughout the season.
How to Control Aphids Organically



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    What harm does aphids do?

    Early spring (from mid-April) warming can contribute to the massive appearance of pests.

    1. Aphids are massively collected on leaves and green shoots, suck out juices from plants , often strongly deforms leaves, shoots and fruits, oppresses and weakens plants.

    • As a result, the growth, yield and frost resistance decrease, the life expectancy of fruit plantations is reduced.

    2. Aphids excrete excrement in the form of a sticky liquid that contaminates leaves, branches and fruits. Saprophytic sooty fungi settle on these secretions , which, multiplying, cover the surface of the plants with a continuous black bloom.

    • Because of this, the processes of respiration and nutrition of plants deteriorate.

    3. Ants feast on sweet secretions of aphids , which in mass gather on aphid colonies and protect pests from predatory beneficial insects: ladybirds, sirphid larvae and lacewings.

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    Aphid control

      The fight against aphids should be started in early spring!

      1. Spraying for the destruction of hibernating eggs

      At the beginning of budding on plants, in the phase of mass hatching of larvae, the following are used for processing:

      • Fitoverm (low-hazard biological product),
      • drugs containing nicotine ,
      • vegetable infusions and decoctions ( dandelion , potato tops ) with the addition of soap .

      2. Destruction of plant parts affected by aphids

      • cutting and burning of damaged tops of shoots with aphids in early spring (especially on plums , gooseberries , currants ),
      • destruction of weeds on which aphids breed;
      • cut plum and cherry root shoots in a timely manner and destroy along with the aphids on it.

      3. Treatment with drugs

      • In the summer, when the leaves are twisted, systemic insecticidal preparations are used .
      • Plants cannot be processed during flowering (only before or after).
      • It is not recommended to spray plums , cherry plums , peaches and apricots in hot sunny weather at temperatures above + 30 ° C. There may be burns and shedding of leaves.



      Fight against gall aphids

      On golden, red, black currants, gooseberries, viburnum, there may be an invasion of gall aphids . Aphids, parasitizing on viburnum and cherry, are black in color, and parasitizing on other crops - green.

      There is no reason for great concern

      • Gallic aphids are not so dangerous as to resort to drastic measures.
      • This pest spoils the appearance, but it is not worth removing the leaves (partially green, carrying out photosynthesis) or uprooting the plants.

      According to scientific data, gall aphid takes only 10% of the crop, that is, it practically does not reduce it. And her invasion happens, fortunately, not every year.

      Shoot aphid control

      The shoot aphid can be colored in various colors (from black to bluish green). Shoot aphids are more dangerous than gall aphids.

      • It parasitizes plums , apples , currants , gooseberries , viburnum , honeysuckle and cherries .
      • Twists the tops of the shoots together with the leaves into a ball (the so-called " twist ").
      • Shoot growth stops.
      • The winter hardiness of the plant and the harvest of this year are sharply reduced .
      • Several generations of the pest hatch over the summer.
      • The growth of affected young shoots stopped by aphids affects the next year's harvest : if the shoots stop growing, then there will be no harvest.

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        Prevention of shoot aphids

        The most effective way to combat shoot aphids is prevention.

        • Bushes and trees should be treated as early as possible, at the beginning of bud break (before the aphids have begun to multiply).
        • Ants are destroyed at the same time.

        Escaping aphid control measures

        If there was no prophylaxis, and the shoot aphid appeared, the fight should be started immediately after its detection. This is best done when the buds open. The appearance of ants indicates that the aphid is awake.

        1. Immediately treat shoots with Fitoverm biological product . Or this is done after flowering: flowering shrubs cannot be processed.
        2. Suppress single foci of infection, mechanically removing especially strongly twisted tops of the shoots. But at the same time, naturally, the growth and yield of the next year is decreasing.
        3. Dip "twists" affected by aphids in solutions of preparations destroying pests. It is best to use a soap-oil emulsion or Fitoverm biological product .

        Fitoverm is considered a universal drug, but it is in the plant for some time, as a result of which it is not recommended to process the shrub with it less than 2-3 days before harvesting.


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        Aphid soap

        You can prepare a soap-oil emulsion yourself:

        • in equal parts, mix vegetable oil (it is better to take odorless oil) and soap (or ordinary dishwashing detergents).
        • prepare a 1-2% solution,
        • The soap plays the role of a fixative, an "adhesive" for the resulting solution, which is sprayed on the affected plants.

        The advantage of a soap-oil emulsion is that it works effectively even at low positive air temperatures, unlike other chemical and biological preparations, which are effective only at temperatures above 15 ° C.

        Insects against aphids

        Often, aphids, like other species, are attacked by predatory insects:

        • ladybugs,
        • hoverfly larvae,
        • larvae of lacewings.

        They destroy the colonies of aphids even before the appearance of the winged generation of aphid-settler.

        How to Control Aphids Organically

        Aphid species

        Plants are harmed by different types of aphids, but the essence of the damage and the fight against them are the same.

        • In Siberia and regions with a temperate climate, methods of dealing with aphids of different species are approximately the same. Aphid species harm mainly in the crown of young plantations.
        • In the southern ones, there are more dangerous species: harmful on fruiting plantations, in the crown and on the roots.

        Aphids on raspberries

        1. Raspberry aphid (small shoot raspberry aphid) colonies at the ends of the shoots and leaf petioles. Leaves curl, shoots twist and stop growing, raspberries do not bear fruit. Particularly harmful in dry years.
        2. Large, leafy raspberry aphids damage raspberries and blackberries. It lives singly or in small colonies on the underside of the leaves, the leaves are discolored, their edges are bent down.

        Aphids on apple and pear

        1. On apple and other pome crops, such as pear, quince, hawthorn, mountain ash, irga, cotoneaster, the green apple aphid is most harmful It actively develops only on young growing shoots, inhabits shoots in old gardens.
        2. On the Siberian small-fruited apple and Ranetki common Siberian moth aphid , causes more damage in the early summer. Damaged leaves are deformed, acquire a red-orange color, and stop developing.
        3. If the leaf - rolling aphid ( pear leaf- rolling aphid ) is harmful , then on the pear the leaves curl across the central vein, aphids accumulate in them, the growth of shoots stops, they dry out. On heavily populated pear trees, fruit buds are not laid, emaciated trees become unstable to frost.

        How to Control Aphids Organically

        Photo: Apple aphid

        Aphids on plums and cherries

        1. Plum- pollinated aphid , reed . Distributed on plums in all areas of fruit growing. In addition to plums, it damages cherry plum, apricot, peach, blackthorn, almond.
        2. Green peach aphid (greenhouse) is ubiquitous in greenhouses on vegetable, industrial and ornamental plants. It reproduces for a whole year, giving birth to live larvae without fertilization. In greenhouses and indoor pot crops, soap is used for safety reasons .
        3. Cherry aphid (black) is harmful in all zones and countries where cherries and cherries are grown.


        Aphids on currants and gooseberries

        1. Gooseberry shoot aphid . The leaf stalks and shoots are curved, stop growing, and clumps of twisted leaves form on the tops of the branches, inside which there are many aphids. Damages black and golden currants, less damage to gooseberries. Distributed in all zones.
        2. Leafy gall aphid (red currant gall aphid) is widespread on red and black currants. On the upper part of the leaf blade, swellings in the form of red galls are formed. Dangerous in the first half of the summer.

        It is recommended to plant aphid-resistant currant varieties:

        • August,
        • Lydia,
        • Irmen,
        • Solomon,
        • Kalinina's gift,
        • Blackie,
        • Princess.


        Description of aphids

        • Aphid is an insect 2-3 mm long, hibernates in the egg phase (some southern species - in the form of a larva).
        • Eggs overwinter on branches and shoots at the bases of the buds.
        • During the period of swelling of the kidneys, larvae (founders) hatch from the eggs, which harm the kidneys. When the buds open, they move to leaves and young shoots.

        It multiplies extremely quickly. It is especially harmful on young plantings.

        1. Founding females develop for 12-15 days, then give birth to live larvae without fertilization, which immediately begin to harm.
        2. During the summer, aphids give from 5-6 to 10-15 generations (depending on the species and region), sometimes covering the leaves and shoots with a continuous layer of larvae and adult females.
        3. In summer, simultaneously with virgin females, winged settler females develop, which scatter, populating new plantings (some species in summer populate intermediate plants, by autumn they return to the main - migratory forms).
        4. In September - October, the aphid lays eggs on the branches and shoots, which hibernate, and the aphid dies from frost. 

        Over the past year over 13,200 families have also already successfully used the very same technique 👇

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